Japanese vending machines — four million quiet little statements about how safe the streets are

You step out of a Japanese train station on a cold January morning, walk twenty meters toward the office, and pass three of them already: glass-fronted vending machines lit from the inside, lined up against the wall like small standing refrigerators. You stop at the second one, fish a 100-yen coin out of your pocket, press the button under a small can with the word HOT in red, and a moment later there's a warm aluminum can in your hand. The can is hotter than your skin — about 55 degrees Celsius. You hold it tightly all the way to the office, switching hands when one finger gets too warm. By the time you sit at your desk, your fingers haven't gone numb once.

That little machine, that warm can, and the obvious fact of an unattended box of cash standing on a public sidewalk all night — those three things together quietly explain something about Japan that's hard to see in any other country.

What sits inside one of these

There are millions of them across Japan — the highest density on the planet, by a wide margin. They sit everywhere a person might walk, then several places past where a person would normally walk: outside every train station, three to a corner; in the lobby of every office building; in the entryway of many elementary schools; at the trailhead of mountain hikes; at the top of mountain hikes; outside remote temple gates with no other building in sight; in the corridor of nearly every onsen ryokan; in the parking lot of every convenience store; under the overpasses of every Tokyo neighborhood.

What they sell, depending on the season and the corner:

• Cold drinks year-round — green tea, oolong, barley tea, water, soda, juice, energy drinks, fresh canned milk.
• Hot drinks from roughly October through April — canned coffee in five styles, hot lemon, hot ginger, milk tea, zenzai (sweet red bean broth). On the same canned-drink machines, a "HOT" label marks the warmed cans.
• In separate paper-cup vending machines (a different machine type): corn potage, drip coffee, hot soup — poured into a paper cup on demand.
• In some specialty machines: hot canned oden, fresh-pressed orange juice from a machine that contains actual oranges, frozen ice cream, hot cup ramen, sake, and beer.
• In a few neighborhoods: small toys in capsules, packaged batteries, umbrellas, fresh flowers, and (in farming areas) raw eggs and locally grown vegetables.

Every machine takes coins, bills, IC cards (Suica, Pasmo, ICOCA), and increasingly a tap of your phone. Every machine works at three in the morning. Every machine works in the rain. They get refilled once or twice a week by a driver in a small truck who knows every machine on his route by sight.

Why this works here and almost nowhere else

The simple version: a country can only have unattended cash machines in every alley if those machines are not robbed. Japan's vending-machine density is, more than anything else, a continuous public statement about the safety of Japanese streets. In a country where the density were lower or the safety were worse, the machines would simply get vandalized or emptied at night, and the operators would withdraw them. In Japan, they don't. They sit there, full of coins and bills and product, all night, in alleys, at the foot of mountains, at the back of empty parks — and almost nothing happens to them. So the operators install more.

The hot-drinks side of the machine is the second part of the answer. A hot can of coffee in your hand on a four-degree morning, paid for in fifteen seconds and warmed by the machine itself, is a small daily act of being looked after by your environment. Once you've had a few of those mornings — the warm weight in your hand, the small puff of steam when you crack the can open, the heat moving from your fingers up into your wrist as you walk — you start to understand why a country might want one of these things on every corner.

Buy a hot can in winter

Next time you're in Japan in winter, buy a hot canned coffee from the first vending machine you see in the morning and walk to your destination holding it in your bare hand. Try a few brands and find the one you actually like. While you're there, count how many machines you can see from a single intersection. Try something different each day for a week — the cold green tea on a hot July afternoon, the canned zenzai after a snowy walk, the corn potage in a paper cup at the trailhead of a mountain.